This is @Shimitar@downonthestreet.eu‘s work, not mine - but it’s pretty similar to how I’d set things up:

https://wiki.gardiol.org/doku.php?id=networking%3Assh_tunnel

This is a great suggestion!

Lest anyone miss the buried lede, this approach means that traffic is pre-encrypted as it passes through the gateway VPS - so even if your VPS gets hacked, it’s way harder to steal credentials and break into the services running on your home network.

If you’re looking for sympathy, you got it. Fuck the state.

If you’re looking for solutions, use a cheap $5/mo VPS that exists purely as your gateway host. Run everything you want on your home machines, then tunnel the traffic to your gateway and reverse-proxy it there. Your data stays in your hands, you can spin up and expose new services publicly in a matter of minutes, AND your home IP isn’t vulnerable to doxxing or DoS.

It all comes down to what you want at the end of the day. Not trying to plant-shame in the slightest, but under optimal conditions, your plant would be well over the 6’ mark at this point in the season.

If you’re just looking to have some plants around, learn a bit, and maybe get something tasty - do whatever makes you happy.

If you want to start getting decent produce, you should use a bigger container or go in-ground. A 5-gal bucket with some drainage holes is good bang for the buck, but basically the absolute bare minimum for large indeterminates. If you don’t want to make life hard for yourself, switch to a patio-friendly cultivar or aim for a ~20 gal container next year.

Object storage is indeed a specialized filesystem in a trenchcoat.

Object storage is typically (but not always) associated with non-hierarchical key-value lookups, as opposed to the directory tree pattern most file systems use. Object storage systems are also typically (but not always) designed with sharding and distribution in mind.

This is a Jellyfin problem; not a beets problem. You can easily solve it with beets config if you’d like to, though.

The distinction between what you want vs. what you’re getting is that Jellyfin is grouping by the “Artist” tag instead of the “Album Artist” tag. I haven’t touched Jellyfin in years, but look for a builtin setting or alternative view to group by album artist - you’ll almost certainly find it.

If you want to solve it in beets, you can do that through a custom script, the FtInTitle plugin, or a combo of the inline + advancedrewrite plugins. Remember to run a re-import on the Jellyfin side after making your tweaks to the beets pipeline to make your changes show up without duplication.

I was hoping to play around with the dataset over the weekend to toy with some text-embedding techniques, but they’ve pulled the cord on the download links.

Anyone have a copy of the full archive they’re willing to share, or a magnet link?

You are not hosting csam on purpose. And most likely try to moderate as good as possible.

Look up what “strict liability” means in a criminal law context.

We can go back and forth on this all day, but I’m gonna just sum my point into a nice tight thesis: broadcast application of phosphorus is by far the biggest issue in terms of runoff (as you allude to re: lawn fertilizer). Home gardening use of phosphorus mixed into soil is entirely harmless by comparison.

I agree excess potassium is bad. Doesn’t happen overnight.

Plenty of reputable books and horticulturalists recommend even-ratio’d ferts for all these crops. My local ag office explicitly recommends 10-10-10 in particular for tomatoes year-round in a home garden context. It’s simplified, suboptimal advice; we’re on the same page there - but not malpractice.

Phosphate - Excess phosphate is water soluable and runs off like nitrate. This causes all sorts of issues in waterways.

Not at all true for the purposes of home gardening: https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g9181. Granular fertilizer worked into the soil and covered by mulch isn’t going anywhere.

There is little potential for phosphorus to leach through soil into groundwater. Soil particles have a large capacity to fix phosphorus in forms that are immobile in soil.

Only 1/3 of it is immediately available. The other 2/3rd are insoluable and stays in the soil for months. It then releases over the winter and early spring and runs off into the waterways.

Entirely depends on the form of phosphate. See “Table 1: Percentages of water-soluble and available phosphate in several common fertilizer source”. The runoff bit is still nonsense.

https://extension.umn.edu/phosphorus-and-potassium/understanding-phosphorus-fertilizers#materials-619210

Potassium - elevated levels of potassium in some species is an issue in others it’s not a problem. For example corn and other grasses will suck up extra K+ and store it. Howeve in tomatoes, peppers, potatoes etc it can inhibit the uptake of Ca+ and Mg+.

Sure - that buildup takes a while though.

The idea that hitting plants with 3-1-2 fertilizer causes top heavy growth is myth that is passed around gardening forums and many books To put it bluntly it flat out doesn’t happen. The root/shoot ratio is quite a bit more complex than that.

I agree that it’s more complex than that, and early 3-1-2 is in no way a catastrophic death knell, but there’s a grain of truth to it. As I think we also agree, pretty much every reputable source will tell you to prep the bed with a higher P+K feed in the early season.

Throwing out clarification since I think I was the one who threw out the even-ratio’d fert suggestion to you: your read is spot on.

The_v has a totally valid point here, but is substantially overstating the issue. Most plants do prefer an overall ratio closer to 3-1-2 over their lifetime, so if you feed them 10-10-10 endlessly, you’ll eventually get toxic build-up of phosphorus and potassium. Unless your starting soil is abnormally high in those already, that will take at least a few years to manifest, and can be easily addressed by switching to nitrogen-heavy feed until your plants take up the excess P+K.

Additionally, you don’t want to hit the plants with a higher-N 3-1-2 feed right out the gate - especially in hotter climates - since that can cause top-heavy growth with too much foliage but not a big enough root system to feed those leaves. That’s why many people add bone meal when planting or prep the bed with a higher P+K feed in the early season.

You won’t have any downside sticking with the 10-10-10 for a while; just don’t do it for years on end without getting your soil tested.

Good step spacing, aesthetic mulch, healthy plants, just the right dose of unkempt wildness.

10/10 path, OP - nice work.

Yup - definitely not lemon balm, and sure looks like lemon basil.

If runners are a worry, you can always put them in a container!

I put mine in these “plantainers” that you can find at most big box stores, and they seem to like it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/MacCourt-20-Gal-Large-Plantainer-Preformed-Pond-Liner-PP2615/308771723. Drill holes, optionally paint white (if you live somewhere hot), add soil/fert/plant, and you’re off to the races.

Make sure you know about the University of Arkansas cultivars before pulling the trigger though! They’ve got some pretty impressive varieties, including ones that produce fruit on first-year branches.

You didn’t start by asking a question. You needlessly trashed a helpful suggestion from a place of ignorance, then asked a naive question defensively to mask a lack of knowledge.

That is rude and trollish behavior.

Since it seems like you don’t know much about bash at all, I promise the book will help you.

You can be someone who actually knows what they’re talking about instead of making embarrassing, snarky comments that expose your lack of education on the topic at hand.

Bash has had some nice minor features and syntax sugar added, but the fundamentals are entirely the same. All the examples in the book work just the same today as they did when it was written.

What was added in 4.X or 5.x that you can’t live without? What do you think has changed that merits inclusion?

It’s a 36 y/o language, mate. I still reference my copy all the time, and found it to be a great definitive resource when I was learning.

How many bash 4/5 features are you seriously using on a regular basis? What do you think is out-of-date?

I highly recommend O’Reilly’s Learning the Bash Shell in paperback form: https://www.oreilly.com/library/view/learning-the-bash/0596009658/.

The other responses you’ve received so far don’t offer much insight into the historical background and underlying mechanics of the shell, which are crucial to understanding the "Why?"s of command-line quirkiness.

• I don’t want to spoil your fun with the mint, but the runners above ground aren’t the ones to worry about. Mint likes to spread through its roots… a lot. Best kept in a container ;).
• Most pests are visible to the eye, but there are a few exceptions like spider mites. You’ll typically know you have them by other obvious signs though. A loupe can be helpful for insect ID, but isn’t crucial.
• You can mostly ignore the nutrition from that compost. You’d have to do some math to know the impact of that fertilized garden soil, but it’s likely quite modest. Feel free to use 1/2 - 3/4 the recommended amount of granular for the first month or two if you want to be conservative.
• High NPK numbers aren’t necessarily good or bad, but they are more concentrated and can be more liable to burn things, depending on their form factor and nutrient release pattern.
• As for lettuce/onion seedlings, ideally you till some fertilizer into the bed while you’re prepping it. You could give them some liquid fertilizer at half-strength to make up the difference - but yeah, they’ll still do fine if you just sidedress in a couple of weeks. Both those plants really like higher-nitrogen feeds, so you might want to think about getting a different fertilizer for them down the road.

All that being said, don’t feel obliged to follow any of this if you don’t want to. You’ve definitely set yourself up to get something edible and tasty, so don’t sweat the details if it starts getting in the way of your fun. Hope it helps and happy gardening!